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When heavy rains turn peaceful streams into raging rivers and dried-up riverbeds carry more water than they can hold, flash floods occur. Then unruly masses of water literally claw, eat and cut their way through rock and stone. They shoot inexorably through initially small faults in the terrain, wash them out and deepen them further and further. Over millions of years, notches become rivulets and watercourses become canyons. The unimaginable force of the water shapes the walls of the canyons, grinds them into curved lines, gives them gentle undulations, sharp edges, striped bends and brushed loops. Deep and sometimes very narrow canyons of immeasurable beauty emerge. Irregular perfection that is subject to an order. An order of wind and weather, light and shadow, colours and shapes.
The so-called slot canyons are also subject to this order. Located on the Colorado Plateau in northern Arizona and southern Utah, they impress not only by their size but also by their bizarre shapes, grandiose light moods and the visible power of nature.
One of the most remarkable, beautiful and therefore most visited slot canyons is Antelope Canyon near the town of Page in Arizona. Located in the territory of the Navajo Indians, it can only be visited as part of their guided tours. Places are limited and therefore highly sought after and often booked up well in advance.
Antelope Canyon is divided into two parts: the Upper and the Lower Antelope. Most of the year, both canyons are dry and accessible. However, if rainfall is forecast, there is a risk of flash floods. Then there is an absolute ban on entering both canyons.
The upper part is the most visited, as access is at ground level. The Lower Antelope, on the other hand, is more difficult to visit. Its twists and turns are much narrower towards the bottom and widen towards the top, so that steep stairs have to be climbed and sections of narrow twists and turns have to be climbed through to get in and out. Compared to the Upper Antelope, more light penetrates the Lower Antelope through the wide canyon openings to the ground, resulting in a breathtaking play of light, shadows, shapes and colours that changes with every bend. Grey becomes orange. Brown becomes magenta. And red shines in all its nuances. Rocks and ledges form faces and stamp all kinds of fantasy shapes into the sky. You could spend hours here... If it weren't for the guides, who have to keep to their tightly timed tour schedule and constantly urge the visitors to move on.
The close timing of the visitor groups spoils the hoped-for extensive enjoyment of the Lower Antelope. A feeling of trepidation and breathlessness quickly sets in; one is caught in the stream of other visitors and the constant drive of the guide. And so one group after the other presses, pushes and shoves its way through the narrow twists and turns.
And so, in the end, we inevitably ask ourselves which torrents shape the image of Lower Antelope Canyon more: those of the relentless flash floods or those of the countless visitors?
All words and photos by The Sturgheons.
